For the ham:
One 12-14-pound cured and smoked bone-in ham, preferably with a layer of fat
Choose Tangy Peach Mustard:
1 1/2 cups peach preserves
1 cup Dijon mustard (preferably country Dijon)
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
4 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 1 1/3 cups)
Or choose Sweet and Spicy Jerk:
1 1/2 cups hot pepper jelly
3/4 cup orange juice
3 tablespoons finely grated garlic
3 tablespoons finely grated ginger
3 tablespoons whole allspice, crushed
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
Or choose Smoky BBQ Maple:
1 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup smoked paprika
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons garlic powder
2 tablespoons onion powder
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
Biscuits or soft dinner rolls
Spicy Honey Mustard
A roasting pan with rack
Preheat oven to 350F, with the rack in the lower third of oven. If your ham has a layer of fat, use a sharp paring knife to score the fat in a diamond crosshatch pattern, about 1 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep.
For Tangy Peach Mustard Ham or Sweet and Spicy Jerk Ham:
In a medium bowl, mix together the glaze ingredients of your choice. Brush all over ham (reserving some glaze for basting while cooking).
For Smoky BBQ Ham:
Brush the ham with maple syrup (reserving some syrup for basting while cooking). Combine the rest of the ingredients in a medium bowl, then rub all over ham, pressing into syrup to adhere.
Position roasting rack in roasting pan; pour 2 cups water into pan and place prepared ham on rack. Cover pan with foil and bake 1 hour. Remove pan from oven, remove foil, and brush ham with reserved glaze or maple syrup. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F.
Return ham to oven uncovered. Bake until glaze has caramelized and the ham’s internal temp reads 135°F when an instant-read thermometer is inserted in the middle of the ham (avoiding bone), brushing with more glaze or syrup if desired, 40 minutes to 1 hour more.
Let rest 10 minutes before carving. Serve with biscuits or rolls, mustard, and pickles.
Do Ahead: Glazes can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated. Rub (without maple syrup) can be made up to 1 month in advance and kept at room temperature.
Cooks’ Note: Country Dijon is a rustic blend of Dijon and whole grain mustard.